Max Mara’s Spring 2027 collection in Milan centered on a concept called "utility lux." Creative Director Ian Griffiths showcased functional pieces like safari jackets and trench coats designed to empower the modern woman .
The 1930s adventurers inspiring the Spring 2027 mood board
The collection draws a direct line between modern functionality and the spirit of early 20th-century exploration. According to a report from WWD, the mood board for this season included legendary travelers such as Amelia Earhart, Beryl Markham, Freya Stark, and Osa Johnson. This historical connection was reflected in the styling, which featured pin curls, glacier glasses, and jaunty Bermudas.
This aesthetic shift places Max Mara within a broader tradition of "adventure chic," where clothing serves as a tool for movement rather than just a visual statement. by channeling the 1930s, Griffiths is tapping into a sense of timelessnness that avoids the fleeting nature of modern internet micro-trends.
Testing 'equipment for living' on Max Mara office staff
For Ian Griffiths, who has been with the brand for nearly 40 years, fashion is less about spctacle and more about practical application.. He describes his designs as "equipment for living," a philosophy that prioritizes how a garment feels during a full day of activity.. To ensure this, Griffiths reportedly tests all new designs on the women who work in his own office to confirm they can be easily worn and then forgotten.
This hands-on approach to design emphasizes comfort as a non-negotiable element of luxury. As the report notes, Griffiths advises anyone struggling with a garment to take it off immediately, suggesting that discomfort is a sign of a failed design. This focus on seamless wearability offers a grounded alternative to the high-maintenance silhouettes often seen on the runway.
Lustrous gabardines and black organza cargo pants
The material choices for the Spring 2027 season highlight a tension between heavy-duty utility and high-fashion delicacy. The collection featured "meaty" linens and lustrous gabardines that provided a sense of substance and durability. These were paired with slinky knit dresses that offered a sexy silhouette without relying on excessive transparency or revealing cuts.
However, the collection also included more experimental pieces that push the boundaries of the utility theme. These include a flight suit and a pair of cargo pants crafted from black organza, adding a layer of unexpected femininity to the rugged, safari-inspired aesthetic.
Can 'utility lux' compete with Milan's sheer-top trend?
While the Max Mara show remained largely free of obvious gimmicks, it leaves several questions regarding its place in the current fashion landscape. The report mentions that there was only one visible bra during the show, which stands in stark contrast to the "ubiquitous" trend of sheer tops and visible lingerie seen throughout the rest of the Milan season.
It remains unclear how the more delicate "utility" items, such as the organza cargo pants, will balance the brand's promise of ruggedness with their inherent fragility. Furthermore, it is yet to be seen if this pivot toward understated, functional elegance can successfully compete with the high-visibility, trend-driven pieces currently dominating social media feeds.
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