Creative director Stefano Gallici presented Ann Demeulemeester's Spring 2027 collection,drawing heavy inspiration from a solo journey through the Californian desert. The show blended dark romanticism with rugged,weathered textures to create a niche, alternative atmosphere.
A palette of black, white, and blue inspired by December's desert trek
Stefano Gallici's Spring 2027 collection for Ann Demeulemeester focuses on a stripped-back color palette of black, white, and blue. according to the report, the designer's aesthetic was shaped by a solo trip across the Californian desert last December, leading him to favor sun-bleached decay over the typical glitz associated with Los Angeles.
The collection emphasizes heavy layering and complex textures to evoke a sense of raw fragility. as the report notes, the opening segment featured minidresses and asymmetric skirts constructed from materials like tulle, silk crepon, and ruched jersey in shades of ivory, chalk, and ecru. This approach moves the brand away from traditional luxury toward a more weathered, organic sensibility.
Ethel Cain’s exclusive Paris capsule and Chelsea Wolfe’s live set
The musical atmosphere of the Ann Demeulemeester show was defined by a curated selection of indie and alternative tracks. During his desert travels, Gallici reportedly listened to Ethel Cain’s “Western Nights” and Chelsea Wolfe’s “The Mother Road,” both of which played a role in the show's sonic identity.
Chelsea Wolfe provided a live performance on the catwalk, while Ethel Cain’s involvement extended into a tangible product launch. The singer has developed a capsule collection that is exclusively available at the brand’s newly opened store in Paris. The show's front row further cemented its connection to the music scene, featuring Rhian Teasdale of Wet Leg alongside Jamie Campbell Bower and Kodi Smit-McPhee.
From Napoleon jackets to destroyed tuxedos and aviator leather
Garment details in the Spring 2027 collection lean heavily into historical and military influences. Gallici integrated recurring brand themes such as Victorian and Edwardian-era touches, alongside the popular Napoleon jacket and '70s-inspired tailoring.
The collection also embraces a "destroyed" aesthetic through items like distressed denim, bleached cargo pants, and tuxedos that have been flipped inside out to showcase their linings. To complete the rugged look, the designer included aviator-inspired leather outerwear featuring a lived-in patina and workwear pieces accented with rust stains.
The question of whether the Ethel Cain collection will go global
While the collaboration with Ethel Cain marks a significant cultural moment for the brand, the accessibility of the collection remains unclear. the report states the capsule is currently only available at the Paris flagship store, leaving fans outside of France wondering if a digital release or international distribution is planned . It also remains to be seen how the brand will balance this high-concept, niche musical integration with its broader commercial goals.
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