The fifth edition of Vogue World recently transformed Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II into a high-fashion spectacle . Featuring a massive lineup of designers and celebrities, the event celebrated the evolution of Italian craft through a series of themed segments.
From Etro robes to Gigi Hadid’s Valentino couture
The event began by honoring the deep-rooted traditions of Italian craftsmanship, serving as a tribute to the "bedrock" of the industry. According to the report, the show opened with dancer Roberto Bolle in a scarlet Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria cape, accompanied by dancers in monastic Etro robes. This procession symbolized centuries of evolution, featuring models carrying symbols of the craft like a loom and a model of the Milan Duomo.
This focus on heritage transitioned into a showcase of historically informed handicraft. A standout moment featured Gigi Hadid wearing a harlequin patchwork crinoline gown from Alessandro Michele’s debut couture collection for Valentino. This segment highlighted the intricate work of various houses, including lace from Fendi and Prada, as well as embellishments from Giambattista Valli and Dolce & Gabbana.
A 'magical minestrone' of FedEx drivers and Cardi B
Rather than a traditional, linear runway, the event functioned as a "magical minestrone" that blended high fashion with the everyday life of Milan. As the source notes, the spectaclle included a snapshot of the Galleria’s daily rhythm, featuring unexpected cameos like chef Carlo Cracco, a FedEx delivery worker, and even a yoga enthusiast dressed in Loro Piana.
The atmosphere was further energized by a mix of pop culture and satire. The show moved through a section dedicated to modernism and pop, featuring Versace’s iconic Vogue-cover catsuits and vintage pink newspaper-print suits by Franco Moschino. Amidst this whirlwind of high-concept fashion, the presence of global stars like Cardi B added a layer of contemporary celebrity gravity to the historic setting.
J.Lo’s emeralds and the rise of Moncler Genius sportswear
The evening shifted toward glamour and technical innovation as the lights dimmed. Tennis star Lorenzo Musetti and singer J.Lo marked the transition to eveningwear, with Lopez wearring a massive green gemstone that anchored a wave of lush looks,including Aryna Sabalenka in a Gucci gown. This segment emphasized the romance and luxury of the Italian fashion system.
Following the eveningwear, the focus pivoted to the intersection of material technology and sportswear . This chapter featured Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Balenciaga-inspired pieces for Moncler Genius and synthetic furs from Bottega Veneta. The segment also celebrated athletic excellence, with Italian speed skater Arianna Fontana passing through in Marni, carrying her Olympic gold medals.
Who will follow Alicia Keys in the 'Memory Dresses' era?
The grand finale saw Alicia Keys emerge at a piano to sing Donna Summer, providing a climactic soundtrack to a series of "Memory Dresses." These final looks, created by various fashion houses, included diaphanous draping from Ferragamo’s Maximilian Davis, Fendi caping by Maria Grazia Chiuri, and a fantastical Valentino catsuit by Alessandro Michele. The night concluded with the descent of Jony Ive-designed dragonfly whirligigs.
While the event was a triumph of spectacle,several questions remain regarding the long-term impact of these specific creative experiments. It is unclear how much commercial weight will be given to Francesco Risso’s new "Bureau of Imagination" label following its debut. Additionally, while the "Memory Dresses" served as a powerful closing statement, the report does not specify if this concept will become a recurring seasonal theme for the various participating houses.
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