The Vivienne Westwood Spring 2027 show arrivd at the Palais de la Femme in Paris, navigating through local Pride march traffic. Designer Andreas Kronthaler presented a collection defined by movement, blending punk roots with vibrant, multcultural influences.
From Barbès Bazin cottons to 17th-century silhouettes
The collection draws its vibrant energy from the multicultural Barbès neighborhood in northern Paris. As the report notes, Kronthaler visited local fabric shops to source vivid Bazin cottons, using these textiles as a foundational element for the season's palette . This street-level inspiration was paired with high-concept historical references, specifically a late-17th-century "Cheat Jacket" sourced through a connection with a London costume institute.
This blend of the local and the historical was witnessed by a high-profile guest list, including Jaden Smith, Heidi Klum, and her daughter Lou Sulola Samuel. The atmosphere was further heightened by a performance from punk poet Stuart McKenzie and a playful runway appearance by actress Natasha Lyonne, who wore a bright, open leopard-print jacket.
The 'Cheat Jacket' and the importance of the garment's back
A central design philosophy for this collection is the idea that the rear of a garment deserves as much attention as the front. This concept stems directly from the aforementioned Cheat Jacket, which featured fancy fabric on the front while the back was pieced together from leftovers. According to the details provided, Kronthaler has turned this "humble reverse" into a recurring theme for Spring 2027.
By reworking silhouettes with various material combinations, the house aims to emphasize movement. The collection intentionally plays with contrast, placing flowers upon flowers and mixing vivid prints with beachwear and traditional court references, all while maintaining the brand's signature punk codes.
Why 'sexy men' in nightshirts are the new Westwood focus
Beyond the historical nods, Kronthaler is using this collection to explore personal pleasures and gender fluidity. The designer expressed a desire to see men portrayed with the same level of allure as women, stating backstage, "A man shuold be as sexy as women. I don't see that difference."
This shift is most visible in the introduction of slouchy nightshirts and swimwear designed for "hunky men." The nightshirt concept was born from a personal experience during a recent heatwave, where Kronthaler found comfort in wearing them for daily activities like cycling and shopping. The designer even quipped that people responded positively to the relaxed, breezy look, often greeting him with smiles.
The challenge of scaling 'randomly' chosen fabric lengths
While the collection's spontaneity is a strength, it leaves several questions regarding how these avant-garde ideas will reach the consumer. The report mentions that Kronthaler chose different lengths of fabric "very randomly ," which raises questions about how such irregular pieces will be standardized for commercial production.. Additionally, it remains to be seen if the "nothing underneath" styling of the nightshirts will be a literal guide for the brand's retail direction or strictly a runway moment. Finally, while the "leftover" philosophy of the Cheat Jacket is a beautiful nod to sustainability, the industry will be watching to see how this patchwork approach scales beyond a single couture-adjacent collection.
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