The "clean girl" aesthetic is making way for high-drama eye looks on the Spring 2027 runways. From Gucci's neon pigments to Dior's glittering wings, designers are embracing maximalism through bold colors and textures.
From Gucci's neon cobalt to Dior's glitter wings
The Spring 2027 runway season marks a definitive shift away from the subtle, muted aesthetics that have dominated recent years. According to the report, makeup artists are leaning into high-impact color and texture to redefine beauty standards. At Gucci, Sam Visser utilized a palette of neon cobalt, yellow, turquoise, and pink to create dramatic, smoked-out eye looks.
Other major fashion houses are also pushing the boundaries of eye artistry with distinct styles. Peter Philips brought a different kind of drama to Dior, pairing glittering winged eyes with a minimal base. Meanwhile, The Attico and Simone Rocha showcased heavy use of crystals and glitter, while Dolce & Gabbana focused on the enduring glamour of dramatic winged liner. In London, Kim Brown delivered a "spooky, twinkie doll" aesthetic for Richard Quinn, which relied on heavy mascara paired with matte skin.
How Karl Díaz-Hellín Hodson identifies your eye shape
Mastering these dramatic trends requires a fundamental understanding of one's own facial anatomy. Karl Díaz-Hellín Hodson, an international education and events manager at Laura Mercier, suggests a specific method for determining eye shape. By looking directly into a mirror with a relaxed face and open eyes, individuals can identify if they have monolids, which lack a visible crease, or hooded eyes, where the crease disappears beneath the skin.
The shape is further defined by how the eyes taper and where the outer corners sit in relation to the pupil. For instance, almond eyes taper evenly at both corners, while round eyes appear noticeably tall. If the outer corner sits above a straight line drawn through the pupils,the eye is considered upturned; if it sits below, it is downturned. Hodson also notes that depth matters, distinguishing between prominent eyes that sit in line with the brow bone and deep-set eyes that sit further back.
Claudia Neacsu’s secret to a lifted, runway-ready gaze
Once a shape is identified, professional makeup artist Claudia Neacsu suggests using product placement to create specific optical illusions. For those with round eyes seeking an elongated look, Neacsu recommends applying eyeliner and mascara only to the outer corners, leaving the middle part blank. Conversely, to achieve a "doll-looking" eye, one should accentuate the roundness by applying mascara all the way to the inner corners.
Neacsu also shares a signature lifting technique that works across various eye types. This method involves building the eye shape while simultaneously contouring the face, starting color at the outer corners and extending it toward the templees to connect with the face contour. As the report mentions, finishing the look with a touch of light on the eyelids can complete the upward-sweeping effect.
The gap between runway neons and everyday wearability
While the runway offers endless inspiration , a significant question remains regarding how these intense looks will translate to daily life. The report highlights extreme color palettes, such as the neon yellows and pinks seen at Gucci, but it does not address how these high-pigment, high-maintenance trends will be adapted for the average consumer. It remains to be seen if these colors will become accessible drugstore staples or remain strictly editorial statements.
Additionally, the precision required for looks like the "spooky twinkie doll" or the glittering wings at Dior demands a level of technical skill that may be difficult for beginners to replicate. While experts like Díaz-Hellín Hodson suggest using light layers and checking symmetry with eyes open to avoid "wonky" eyeliner, the source does not provide guidance on how to maintain these high-glam looks throughout a long day of wear .
Comments 0