Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault recently unveiled their Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear collection in a South London performance hall . The show marks a nostalgic return to the deconstructed aesthetics that defined their early graduate work.
The Bettina Rheims-inspired 'undress' aesthetic
The collection draws heavily from the landmark photography of Bettina Rheims, specifically her book documenting women in various stages of undress within anonymous hotel rooms. as the report states, Knowles and Arsenault wanted to examine how their perspective on femininity has shifted since their graduate show at Central Saint Martins.
This move toward "deconstruction and layering" isn't just a passing trend; it is a full-circle moment for a brand that built its reputation on the tension between revealing and concealing the female form. By translating Rheims's voyeuristic intimacy into wearable art, Knwls is leaning into a brand identity that feels both nostalgic and intensely modern.
From peach lace 'Venus shells' to crushed leather roses
The craftsmanship on display was highly technical, moving beyond simple streetwear into high-fashion territory.. One standout piece was a blush pink and peach lace gown that mimicked the opening of a Venus shell, trailing down the calf in concentric tiers. Other garments used "phantom tulle" to create the illusion of silk and jersey pieces sliding off the body, a technique that highlights the brand's mastery of silhouette.
The attention to detail extended to accessories, including bags and skirts adorned with hand-embroidered, crushed leather roses made from ultra-thin skived leather. This level of intricacy suggests a brand that is maturing alongside its decade-long tenure in the industry, moving from raw concepts to impeccable execution.
A post-Diesel era of focused craftsmanship
Having spent a year working under Glenn Martens at Diesel , the duo brought a refined understanding of denim and leather to this collection. The report highlights slashed jeans rejoined at the thigh and a 1950s-inspired swing coat in distressed dark brown leather, complete with sculptural lapels and puff shoulders.
Now that their tenure at Diesel has concluded, Knowles and Arsenault appear to have redirected that professional energy back into their own label. The collection feels more confident and "well-executed" than previous iterations, signaling a period of renewed creative autonomy for the pair.
The question of how 'zingy' the palette will stay
While the collection introduced a more vibrant color story, some questions remain about the brand's long-term direction. The designers mentioned a "zingy" palette, but it is unclear how this shift away from their traditionally darker or more muted tones will influence future seasons. Additionally, while the show featured a trip-hop soundtrack by the musician October Logan, the report does not specify if these musical collaborations will become a permanent fixture of the Knwls brand experience.
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