Francis Kurkdjian, the renowned perfumer behind the hit Baccarat Rouge 540, has launched a new fragrance titled Oud Velvet Mood Extrait. Released under his Maison Francis Kurkdjian label, the scent attempts to redefine the traditionally heavy oud note with a more wearble, "Parisian-style" profille.
Tracing the oud boom from 2012 to the present
Francis Kurkdjian has been a central figure in the fragrance world since the global oud boom began around 2012. During this period , the resinous scent from the agarwood tree became a staple in luxury perfumery, much like vanilla is a mainstay today.. According to the report, Kurkdjian has spent years exploring the textural possibilities of this ingredient, releasing a series of fabric-inspired scents such as Oud Cashmere Mood in 2013 and Oud Silk Mood in 2018.
The perfumer’s approach has often involved pairing oud with notes that evoke specific textures on the skin. For instance, he previously used vanilla to create a "cocooning" effect in Oud Cashmere Mood and rose to mimic the luster of silk in Oud Silk Mood. This history of experimentation sets the stage for his latest attempt to balance the "carnal character" of oud with more refined, wearable elements.
Peach, suede, and the "Parisian-style" oud approach
Maison Francis Kurkdjian's new Oud Velvet Mood Extrait aims to offer a lighter, more wearable version of a traditionally heavy ingredient. Kurkdjian describes this as a "Parisian-style oud," designed to be less overwhelming than traditional Middle Eastern scents . To achieve this, the scent profile relies heavily on notes of peach , apricot-y osmanthus, and a suede accord.
The inspiration for this specific composition reportedly comes from the image of warm desert sand and its soft, undulating contours. Kurkdjian told the report that an "extrait" version is specifically intended to provide greater richness and depth rather than just raw intensity. This makes the fragrance more persistent, with the potential to linger on clothing for several days.
Bergdorf Goodman shoppers smell "boozy fruitcake" and leather
Shoppers at Bergdorf Goodman in New York have already provided diverse initial impressions of the new fragrance. While the product is marketed as unisex, the report notes that it remains undeniably masculine-leaning in its profile. One male shopper described the scent as "boozy fruitcake," while a woman noted that it reminded her of "brand-new leather gloves."
These reactions highlight the potency of the new Extrait. Another shopper noted that the scent is intense enough that it might be best reserved for special occasons rather than everyday wear. The inclusion of the suede accord clearly contribtes to that leather-like quality that some customers immediately identified.
The challenge of following the Baccarat Rouge 540 phenomenon
The commercial success of the new release remains an open question for fragrance enthusiasts and industry analysts. While the new Oud Velvet Mood Extrait is a sophisticated evolution of his previous work, it faces the massive shadow of Baccarat Rouge 540, which remains one of the most influential scents of the last decade. It is currently unclear how this more niche, "refined" oud will perform in a market that has already seen an explosion of similar products.
Furthermore, the report does not specify how the brand plans to differentiate this Extrait from the existing Oud Velvet Mood parfum in terms of broader marketing. Whether this "Parisian" approach can carve out a permanent space in a saturated market is something to watch as the fragrance rolls out globally.
Comments 0