To celebrate 30 years at its Manhattan flagship, the Italian fashion house Etro has launched the "Etrospective NY: 96–26" exhibition. The event, held at the Metropolitan Opera , honors the brand's history while marking a period of significant institutional transition.
The 'Etrospective NY' exhibition at the Madison Avenue palazzo
The Italian fashion house is currently hosting "Etrospective NY: 96–26," an exhibition running from October 21 through November 8. According to the report, the showcase celebrates three decades of design at the brand's 21,000-square-foot New York City flagship. The anniversary event, which was celebrated at the Metropolitan Opera, drew high-profile guests including Taylor Hill, Liza Koshy, Genie Bouchard, and Elizabeth Sulcer.
Visitors to the Madison Avenue location can explore 30 years of designs, with some pieces even being offered as bespoke creations for clients. To mark the occasion, Etro has also released a special bordeaux edition of its Fringes Pony bag, which features a commemorative tag. the exhibition aims to mirror the original spirit of the store, which was envisioned by then-creative director Kean Etro as a "wunderkammer" or a museum-like space where each floor offers a unique, unexpected experience.
Navigating a post-family era after the 2024 ownership change
This anniversary comes during a period of profound transformation for the brand. The founding Etro family exited the business following a change in ownership late last year, and creative director Marco De Vincenzo left the house in March after nearly four years. This marks a significant departure from the brand's traditional structure, as the house recently presented its first collection designed by an internal team in September.
Despite these shifts, CEO Fabrizio Cardinali has expressed a commitment to maintaining the brand's core DNA. As reported by WWD, Cardinali intends to preserve the "paisley, the positive energy, its joy and lightness" that loyal customers expect, rather than pursuing a radical identity overhaaul. He described the current leadership as "custodians" of the brand's vision, tasked with allowing its craftsmanship and codes to evolve without losing their essential character.
The Madison Avenue flagship itself has always been an ambitious project, originally opened in September 1996 to bring clothing, accessories, and home furnishings under one roof. When it first opened, the store even featured an exhibition of historic dress, including 18th-century garments and pieces once owned by the legendary dancer Rudolf Nureyev.
A jump to 242.2 million euros in 2025 sales
The brand's financial performance shows significant growth during this transitional phase.. Etro reported 2025 sales of 242.2 million euros, with earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization (EBITDA) reaching 8.3 million euros. This is a substantial increase from the 850,000 euros reported in 2024.
The United States remains a critical pillar for the company's stability and growth.. Cardinali noted in a WWD interview that the U.S. is Etro's largest e-commerce market, and the brand has seen improved profitability through increased investments in direct-to-consumer sales. This focus on the American market aligns with the importance of the Madison Avenue presence, which serves as a central hub for the brand's global identity.
Who will lead Etro's next creative chapter?
While the brand is leaning into its heritage through this exhibition, several questions remain regarding its long-term creative direction. With the departure of Marco De Vincenzo and the exit of the founding family, the industry is watching to see if the current internal design team can maintain the brand's signature aesthetic. It remains to be seen whether the "custodians" mentioned by Cardinali will eventually seek a new high-profile creative director to steer the brand into its next decade, or if the internal team will become a permanent fixture of the house's new era.
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